Headphone test

Confirm both earcups work, that left and right are the right way round, and that neither driver rattles — then test the microphone half separately.

Last reviewed on August 26, 2026

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Headphone Test
Check left/right wiring, driver health, and frequency range
Put both earcups on the right way round, set volume to about 50%, then run the automatic check.

How to test headphones or a headset

Everything above runs in the browser and needs no permission prompt, because playing sound does not require one. Only the microphone half of a headset test needs permission — for that, the headset test puts both halves on one page.

  1. Plug the headphones in directly, not through a hub or a monitor, and set the volume to around 50%.
  2. Wear them the right way round — the L and R markings are usually inside the headband or on the inner face of each earcup.
  3. Run the automatic left → right check. A lower tone plays on the left, then a higher tone on the right.
  4. Play the individual tones to check for buzzing or a dead driver.
  5. Finish with the sweep to hear the full range each earcup can reproduce.

Volume warning. Test tones are continuous, unlike music, so they feel louder and are more fatiguing at the same level. Start quiet and raise the volume only if you need to — and never to check whether a very high frequency is "there". If you cannot hear 17 kHz, turning it up will not change that.

Left and right: the checks that matter

Channel problems are the most common headphone fault, and the easiest to misdiagnose.

What you hearMost likely causeNext step
Only one side playsCable break near the plug, or a system balance slider off-centreWiggle the cable at the plug while a tone plays; then check the balance setting
Sides are reversedHeadphones worn backwards, or a detachable cable inserted into the wrong cupCheck the L/R markings; on detachable cables the jacks are usually not interchangeable
Both tones come from both sidesMono audio is enabled at the OS levelWindows: Settings › Accessibility › Audio › Mono audio. macOS: Settings › Accessibility › Audio
One side is noticeably quieterPartly inserted plug, driver ageing, or debris in the meshPush the plug fully home; a 3.5 mm plug clicks in with the sleeve flush
Crackling when you move the cableFailing cable or jackReplace the cable if detachable; otherwise the jack needs cleaning or repair

A partly inserted 3.5 mm plug is worth calling out. Stop halfway on a combo jack and you can get sound in one ear, sound with no bass, or a working microphone with no output. Always push until the sleeve is flush with the socket.

Checking driver health with the sweep

Run the sweep with each earcup held to one ear separately. A healthy driver produces a continuous, smooth rise with no mechanical noise. Listen for:

Roll-off at the top is your hearing, not the headphones. Most adults over 25 stop hearing the sweep between 15 kHz and 17 kHz, and that limit is the same on any pair. To measure your own upper limit, use the hearing range test and read how to interpret the result.

Bluetooth headphones behave differently

Wireless headsets have failure modes that wired ones simply do not, and they distort the results of any test:

For any serious listening comparison, use the cable if the headphones have one.

Testing the microphone half of a headset

A headset is two devices in one enclosure, and they fail independently. Once the output side checks out, run the microphone test to confirm the input side works, and use the recorder to hear how you actually sound.

Two headset-specific quirks are worth knowing. First, many gaming and office headsets mute the microphone when the boom arm is rotated upward — no software involved, and no warning. Second, a headset connected to a laptop's single combo jack needs a four-conductor (TRRS) plug; a three-conductor plug carries stereo output but no microphone signal, which is why so many desktop headsets with two separate plugs need an adapter. If your headset microphone will not work at all, start with headset microphone not working.

Using this test before you return a pair

If you are inside a return window, run these four checks and write down what happens — most retailers will accept a clear, reproducible fault description:

Pre-return checklist

  1. Left and right channels tested individually, on two different devices.
  2. Sweep run on each earcup, noting the frequency of any rattle or dropout.
  3. Wired connection tested if the model supports one, to rule out Bluetooth.
  4. Cable wiggle test at both ends while a tone plays.

If the fault only appears on one computer, it is a driver or settings problem, not a hardware one — start with the troubleshooting guides instead.

Frequently asked questions

How do I check if my headphones are wired the right way round?

Run the automatic left-to-right check. A lower tone plays on the left, then a higher tone on the right. If you hear them the other way round, the channels are reversed.

Is a rattle at low frequencies a blown driver?

Usually yes. Mechanical rattle during the 20 to 80 Hz part of the sweep is the clearest sign of a damaged voice coil or a loose part inside the earcup.

Why do my Bluetooth headphones sound worse on calls?

Because the connection switches from a stereo listening profile to a narrowband calling profile the moment the microphone activates. It affects every Bluetooth headset regardless of price.

Can I test my headset microphone here?

Not on this page — use the microphone test, which shows a live waveform and input level. A headset is two devices in one body and they fail independently.

One side is quieter than the other. What should I check?

First the system balance slider, then that the plug is fully seated. If both are fine, swap cables between sides: if the quiet side follows the cable, the cable is at fault.

Is it safe to run the frequency sweep?

Yes at a moderate volume. Test tones are continuous and feel louder than music, so start quiet. Never raise the volume to try to hear very high frequencies.

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